What do the
fashion house Hugo Boss and the Lernaean Hydra of Greek mythology have in
common?
Well, I’m glad
you asked. Not a huge amount, as it happens. One is a scaly oversized
monstrosity, and the other is the Hydra. Ha! The one-two punch. Classic.
No, I’m not lazily cynical about large international fashion houses – though I’ve always found
“Boss” as a brand name a little wankerish. Call me judgmental, but I can never
help but attribute a few notes of swaggering overconfidence to anyone who
swathes themselves in garments with the word “boss” stamped all over them. Or
indeed, to those who do the stamping. I’m considering retiring this
mentality for two reasons: the first is that the only lounge suit I own is from Hugo
Boss (bought years ago, before I knew any better), and I’m desperate not to be
hoist with my own petard (though if I keep using expressions like that, the
Hugo Boss suit won’t be my biggest problem).
The second is
that Hugo Boss is not the cocky fictional name I once thought it was, but
actually just the name of the guy who set up the company. What’s more, he was
German, so in his own language and in the original language of the company, the
name was entirely unburdened by linguistic associations which for better or
worse now wrap themselves around its Anglosphere operations. You can’t fault Hr. Boss for
growing up in a world where the flourishing lingua franca condemned his surname
to connotations of self-importance*.
Hugo Boss was born in Metzingen in 1885. |
Back to the
original question. The similarity is this: when you cut the head of the Lernaean
Hydra, two more heads appear in its place. The same is true of Hugo Boss. Once
the slicing starts, the unified Hugo Boss label disappears – and in its place
appear ‘Hugo’
and ‘Boss’.
The latter is
“traditional”, “classic”, “timeless”, where the former is “younger”, “more
fashionable”, “cheaper”. To roughly quote my colleague in women's fashion. But Hugo Boss isn’t the
only company to cut its own name up into horcrux-like component parts. Paul
Smith have a range under the name PS; Michael Kors has Michael; and
in recent years, Ralph Lauren have introduced the lines Lauren
Ralph Lauren and Ralph
Ralph Lauren (now known as RRL), in a speculative exercise designed to
baffle and frustrate their customers. Marc Jacobs are the only ones trying to make light of all the absurdity - their website banner shifts between "Marc Jacobs (not to be confused with Marc by Marc Jacobs)", and "Marc by Marc Jacobs (not to be confused with Marc Jacobs)". Or maybe they're just genuinely concerned.
That opportunities
for price discrimination and exposure to new demographic groups motivate the
formation of these offshoot imprints, often cheaper than the originals, is fairly
clear. What I find striking is that these companies are so keen to recycle
their own names when these offshoots are created. Why do they limit
their linguistic inventory to existing company titles?
Probably because
the names are recognisable, and provide continuity with the original brand. But then,
so does Weekend MaxMara,
and Armani Jeans, and Bogner
Fire + Ice. The difference is that these latter examples add new words to at least hint at
what their angle is, rather than lazily grabbing a name from the pre-existing
company title and repurposing it.
This is where my
patience for Hugo Boss runs out. It’s not their fault that the surname of their
founder corresponds letter for letter with the English word “boss”. But it is their fault that they take this
surname, isolate it, and blazon it in big letters above the full title. And it’s
that branding which tempts me (against my better judgement) into thinking that Boss
designers and wearers alike are self-important arses. Dammit, I need a new
suit.
It’s hard to keep your balance when you have such a big head. |
*Though you can fault him for being
a Nazi.